Notes from all over
On Wednesday, I’m heading to Spain for my annual running with the bulls in Pamplona, Spain. I get a lot of questions about the run. I’ve ran 11 times. The run dates back to the 14th century. It was started by Spanish butchers, and they wore white and red outfits, which most of us still wear today. The length is .54 miles and ends in the bullring. It lasts 2-3 minutes. Since 1910, there have been 16 deaths. It is held every year on July 6 to July 14. The 6th is the opening ceremony – no run that day.
At 8 a.m. on the other days, we sing the “Prayer to Saint Fermin,” which asks the Patron Saint for safety during the run. Then we have about a minute to get to where we want to run. Then there are four rockets launched. The first – the bulls are in the pen ready to be released. Second – the six bulls have been released. Third indicates the bulls have arrived at the bullring. The fourth is that they are in the pen. After the second rocket, as a runner you wait until the bulls get close and then turn and run. This waiting is one of the most nervous and exhilarating feelings I’ve ever had. I’ve seen people try to change their minds, but it’s too late. The goal of many of us is to run next to the bulls and, if possible, touch one of them.
During a typical run, there are about 2,000 runners. You don’t need to sign up, you just show up. The rules are no cameras, no bags on your person, and you can’t be drunk. If the police see that, they will walk you out and possibly arrest you. And you do not protest or argue with the police in Spain. Once in the street, there are barriers that keep both the runners and the bulls on the course. When you take off running, the concern isn’t the just the bulls, it’s the other people. Imagine a street full of scared folks, many of them suddenly realizing this was a bad decision. You lose track of anybody you have come with and there are people pushing, pulling, tripping as they try to either get close or get out. Last year someone took a picture of me touching the bull and behind me my buddy was climbing the fence to get out. And then as quick as it started – it’s over. Typically, I may run 10 yards with them.
Once the run is over, we walk the course. Typically, there are a few people getting carried off on stretchers. I’ve seen a few who got gored. Normally, that will happen if a bull falls on the cobblestone and loses the herd. We then head to a bar and they have a drink – I don’t know the name, but it has chocolate milk and brandy. It’s the most expensive drink I’ve purchased there – last year it was $8.00.
As I said, there are about 2,000 runners, but the town of Pamplona has a population of 200,000. During the festival, over a million people will descend on the town. The rest of the day and night it’s a constant party. There are bands, parades, dancers, etc. Typically, they are still out at 6 a.m. when the cleaning crew comes in and has two hours to make the place spotless.
Additionally, each night there are six bullfights with the bulls that ran that day. I went once, but it wasn’t for me – I won’t repeat it. Too gruesome for me.
I will run three times during the week. Since I’m over there, I try to visit other countries. This year I’ll visit Amsterdam, Mallorca, Pamplona, Prague, Krakow, and Warsaw. Hopefully, I survive the runs and can visit all these places.